Trip to Tokat

Last month, the Gastronomic Society of Turkey embarked on a three-day gastronomic journey to Tokat, a city where the Black Sea region meets Central Anatolia. Known for its fertile lands and, in particular, its rich viticultural heritage, Tokat is celebrated for its cuisine featuring a wide variety of dishes made with vine leaves, its signature Tokat Kebab, and an assortment of stuffed vegetables and bat (a traditional dish made with bulgur and legumes). Further towards Zile, local specialties include various types of grape molasses, pestil (fruit leather) and sweet tarhana. And, of course, there is Narince, one of Türkiye’s most important indigenous white grape varieties. As the birthplace of Narince, Tokat is also home to Diren Wines. Here, the Gastronomic Society of Türkiye was welcomed for a special lunch among the vineyards at the Kazova Vasfi Diren Agricultural Estate. During their stay, the group lodged at Devecihan, a former caravanserai on the Silk Road, now restored and offering an elegant atmosphere. In Tokat, where fertile plains nurture not only grapes but also a wide variety of fruits and vegetables, local gastronomy also celebrates Karayaka lamb, a geographically indicated product included in the Anatolian Flavours Inventory. At Saklıbahçe, the group tasted Tokat Kebab, a dish whose ultimate purpose is to create the deliciously caramelised, flavour-soaked pide (flatbread) beneath it. Skewers threaded with lamb, garlic, aubergine, peppers and tomatoes, topped with lamb tail fat, are suspended from a vertical iron rod in the centre of the oven. The ingredients cook over oak-wood embers on either side, and the kebab is served with kuşburnu çalkalaması, a much-loved local rosehip drink. Alongside the geographically indicated Tokat Kebab, the stuffed vegetables with plums, lentils and broad beans, sampled at the Emirseyit Erzak Women’s Cooperative, also left a lasting impression. Another local delicacy served here was tatlı tarhana, a sweet treat made from grape molasses and traditionally enjoyed in Tokat alongside tea or coffee. The region’s distinctive desserts also include tırtıl tatlısı and gömlek kadayıfı, the latter served after a meal of pehlili pilav and lamb shank at the Tokat Gastronomy Centre. Surrounded by magnificent natural scenery, Değirmen offered another memorable culinary experience. The group sampled the region’s speciality preserves, ranging from white lily to elderflower, as well as bez sucuğu, a traditional sweet made with grape molasses, and domates öldürmesi, a local tomato dish. The visit also provided an opportunity to learn how the mill operates during the season. Following a visit to Tokat Maturation Institute to explore its colourful wooden block-printing tradition, known as elvan, the group went shopping at Taşhan for local specialities, including grape molasses, vine leaves and rosehip marmalade. The cultural itinerary continued with visits to Yağıbasan Madrasa, the Mevlevi Lodge, the Clock Tower and Latifoğlu Mansion in the city centre. The group also explored the world-famous Ballıca Cave, one of the region’s most remarkable natural wonders. After three days filled with memorable flavours, cultural discoveries and warm hospitality, the journey came to an end, leaving us eager to return to Tokat. Our heartfelt thanks to everyone who contributed to making this wonderful journey possible.